Iron Class Rules

Page | 1

2019 Stirrin’ Dirt Racing Rules

NOTHING other than what is listed below is allowed

Follow general preparation, if a car is disqualified the Team is disqualified!

Officials decisions are FINAL!!!

YOU WILL HAVE 2 TIMES TO PASS INSPECTION OR YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED!

You must be checked in by 11 am or a penalty fee of $50 will be assessed.

Vehicles may be re-inspected at any time before, during or after the show

1. All questions can be sent to Johnny Gullo, Ben Haust, Bobby Brockway, Dale Schafer or Greg Elser, contact info

will follow

2. BUILD TO THE RULES! Don’t over build and expect to cut to the rules. If anything is added to the inside

of the frame other than what is specified in the rules you will immediately fail inspection and not be

allowed to compete.

3. No Pre-run cars

4. Original Frame, Body, clip/dog house Suspension and parts must be used unless otherwise specified below

5. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions; No 2003 or newer FoMoCo frames, No 1973 or

older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4×4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…

6. All drivers and pit crew must sign the driver/waiver paper work, or they will not drive in the event.

7. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, Long sleeve heavy shirt, or racing type jacket, welding jacket etc. Goggles/

glasses

8. All Drivers and ONE crew member must attend the drivers meeting.

9. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.

10. No drivers are allowed alcohol – period. If you are wearing a driver’s band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU

(if team event AND YOUR TEAM) WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.

11. INSPECTIONS: ALL CARS MUST BE AT THE ARENA BY 11 am! PITS WILL OPEN AT 10 AM.

12. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the Stirrin Dirt

Derby staff only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal. If a car is disqualified and/or the

TEAM is disqualified. Cars cannot leave the arena before final post inspection or you will not be eligible for

reinspection.

Car Preparation:

1. NO PRERUNS! No re-stubbing or reclipping of any car. Original body, frame, and doghouse must be used.

2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.

3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.

4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.

5. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a max 24”x24” sign on the roof of

your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen

the car.

6. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it

will not be inspected.

7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than

what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car or team will not run!

And if found on post inspection you will be DQ’d!

8. Anything can be removed; NOTHING can be added. Other than what is specified in the rules

After Market parts that are allowed: Metal Gas tank, Transmission cooler, fuel cooler, brake & gas pedal,

shifter, battery box, steering column up to the steering box, drive line, driveline brake, lower saddle cradle

with front plate up to the headers, motor, rear ends, seat and seat belt, JYD type homemade bumpers.

Page | 2

Frame:

DO NOT ALTER OR WELD THE FRAME OTHER THAN WHAT IS LISTED

1. You may shorten the front frame only by cutting the frame off flush with the front edge of furthest forward core

support bolt or body mount bolt (whichever is closest to the bumper) all sides of the frame end must be equal.

This rule is for hard mounting your bumper, so no more than 3” should be needed to be cut off to accomplish this.

If you shorten to much you will not run.

2. Lower core support must remain in its factory position. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the

body mount in place. If you remove or alter the core support body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run.

Frame Welding

3. No re-welding of any factory seams is allowed other than what is specified. If any welding on the frame that is not

specified in the rules there will be a 3” on 3” off with full daylight slices in the illegal welded section of the frame.

This applies to all parts of the frame rails.

4. The first 10” from the front and rear of the frame rail seams may be welded from the front most edge of the frame

rail.

5. The “FRAME” horns that hold the shock tube on a 73, 74,75 & 76 Chevy, are part of the frame. They may not be

manipulated or cut off and put on a different car. The original factory welds may be rewelded with a single pass

and no filler.

6. Frame Rust Repair – If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT

FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. No re-stubbing frames front or

back, if caught it is a non-repairable fix. You will be loaded. Call before fixing any rust on the frame. Must

provide pictures. An example of a possible fix would be cut out a piece cut exactly to the hole size may be butt

welded in with a .” inspection hole in the middle of the patch.

7. No changing welding or doubling of the rear package tray.

Frame Shaping / heat treating

8. No frame shaping is allowed.

9. No Heat treating of the frame is allowed if caught, you will be DQ’d.

10. You may tilt the frame at the transmission cross member area only by cold/heat or cut at the point the

transmission cross member touches the frame. If Cut you may only buttweld the cut seam and at the

crossmember mounting point only, no added metal may be used. You must adhere to the bumper rule height.

11. You may notch or dimple the frame in the trunk area only. You cannot pre-bend the trunk frame.

12. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all.

Rear Suspension:

1. Suspension must be stock components and workable. No coil spring to leaf conversions or vice versa.

2. Leaf springs must be of made of stock spring material, with a 2” stagger on front and back of each spring, and no

springs can be as long as the main leaf. The 2nd leaf spring after the main must be 2” shorter from the eyelet on

each side, and the next 2” shorter from each end of the last spring. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per

side no thicker than 3/8″ thick and no wider than 2 .” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring and the spring

pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 2” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 4

clamps per spring pack, two on each side of axle. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2”x4”x1/4”. No duct taping leaf

springs. No short leafing, you must use the factory shackle front and back mounting locations distance.

3. If you are making your own shackles, they must be no more than .” thickness and same size of passenger car

OEM shackle and must stay in the stock location/position of that car.

4. You can double or change coil springs to a stiffer spring or put spacers in coil springs to get your height, do not

raise the suspension any other way except what is listed above. Coil springs may be fastened to the axle only.

5. You may use 3/8” chain around your axle to the frame hump with one wrap (this may only go thru the sheet metal

directly above the hump), links may not be welded or bolted to the frame.

6. No other means other than tires and springs and spring spacers per rules may be used to raise the car’s rear

suspension.

Rear Ends:

1. You may use any rear end of your choice. Rear housing bracing may not extend more than 5” back of the OEM

axle tube. Axle savers allowed. Rear end housing may not add or be used to brace, bridge or reinforce the frame

rails. Officials discretion.

Page | 3  

2. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They may be shortened to adjust the pinion angle They must start from

a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using.

3. Watts type conversion brackets are allowed only in the following way.

a. Upper trailing arm brackets musty be bolted to the package tray. They must two separate brackets no

larger than 6” by 12” x .” thick. Must be bolted using max quantity four 5/8 bolts only and may only be

bolted thru the package tray and not thru the body and sheet metal. to the package tray only are allowed

but long as upper and lower control arm rule #2 is used. No welding at all of upper bracket

b. 1998 to 2002 lower brackets. 3” x 3” x 6” long X 1/4” thick. One per frame may be used. Cut one side of

tubing to make a “C” channel. Bracket may be welded to the frame 3” max per side, single pass. Only one

hole to be used to bolt the control arm in place, no other bolts are allowed on these brackets. Bracket

must be within .” of the original mounting bracket. All other stock bracket must be removed

Front Suspension/Steering:

1. Suspension must be stock components and working.

2. No other means other than tires and springs and spring spacers in the front suspension per rules may be used to

raise the cars suspension. NOTHING can be inside the spring bucket other than the spring, spring and/or spacer

may not be welded to the spring bucket.

3. After Market tie rods and ball joints may be used. You may reinforce stock tie rods with a 1”x 1” x 1/8” angle.

4. Upper and lower control arm, struts and strut mounting, and spindles must be factory OEM and in factory position.

Do not re-engineer the way the control arms and steering components mount to the frame. No other front

suspension or steering may be reinforced.

5. Upper A-arms only may be welded but may not be reinforced.

a. If welded, you may only use up to two 3”x4”x1/4” thick strap per upper A-arm. This strap must weld to the

a-arm & frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the A armframe.

This is not the bolt in the A-arm.

b. If swapping upper control Arm’s, they must be direct bolt on with no re-manufacturing of mounts.

6. Steering box – May be interchanged, A flat .” plate may be used to adapt steering box to frame. It must not be

more than 1” larger than the bolt pattern on the frame or steering box. See example picture.

7. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement.

8. Idler Arm & center link must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the

class you are running.

9. Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using, no aftermarket spindles, hubs or rotors. Brake calipers

must remain stock for the stock spindles.

10. Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications. Spindles must

be factory and in factory position. Must be sedan OEM in origin.

11. Sway bar must be factory OEM for that car, it may only be bolted in place only. Factory bracket bolted to the

bottom of the frame only may be used.

Tires

1. No split rims, studded tires, foam filled or Duals. All other tires are allowed.

2. Stock Rims only, Rims may be narrowed. you may on Rim protector not a bead lock. No other reinforcements

3. 8” wheel centers allowed, if running an 8 lug, I may be big enough for lugs. NO full centers.

4. Valve stem protectors allowed. Wheel weights must be removed.

5. All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not

compete.

6. You may not change tires after inspection without official’s consent.

Bumpers:

The intention of this rule is to allow you to mount the bumpers in such a way that they are less likely to fall off. Upon

inspection if it is determined that you have exceeded the intention of the rule you will be given the opportunity to correct it

in order to compete, if you are not willing to correct it you will be disqualified. Officials have final say.

1. Any Factory passenger OEM, JYD OEM passenger car shaped or 5”x5” max square tube bumpers may be used,

all bumpers may be loaded.

2. If you use square tube and add a point to the front of the square tube. Point must be to the following specs.

Page | 4

3. Bumpers may be flipped.

4. No chrome may be welded to the body if using compression style bumpers.

5. Non-compressions factory bumpers for that year of car may be welded to the body. A 1” flat strap may be used to

fill the gap in order to weld the chrome to the “exterior” body sheet metal only. (Note: Hood must be able to open).

Brackets

6. No brackets or shock tubes are allowed to extend or be welded any further back than the first 10” of the frame

unless you are using the factory bracket and tube in the Factory position. This goes for the rear brackets also. If

factory the 10” weld rule applies still.

7. No more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame no farther

back than the first 10” of the frame. Bracket may be shaped to fit the frame, but not cut apart, if you cut the

bracket those pieces cannot be used elsewhere. You can weld bumper brackets to the bumper Shock tube.

Bumper shock tube must be attached to bracket in the factory position. If not, you must discard either the bracket

or tube.

a. Passenger car OEM outside shock tubes must be used. No lengthening is allowed. May be compressed.

b. Shock tubes must be on the outside of the frame unless they are in the frame from the factory.

c. Instead of using bumper brackets on the front or back, you are allowed to use ONE- 4” wide (beginning

width must be 4” wide) x 16” long X 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the

frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 10” of the frame. Bending the remaining 6” around

the front of the frame to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to

the strap. Plate may be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it. You

will not be able to use a shock tube if using the strap. May be put on the top bottom or sides of frame.

Can be used on the rear bumper also.

d. Strap Must be on the Exterior of frame left, right, top, bottom

8. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 15”” from

the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location.

a. You may use flat strap or 9 wire to help hold your bumper on: Note hood must be open for inspection.

b. Front and rear bumpers may have “4” loops in “2” locations. of #9 wire from top of the radiator core

support or trunk lid or deck to bumper (not frame). A “nut” type fastener may be welded to the top of the

core support or hood and bumper to run wire thru.

c. You may have “2” Front and “2” rear bumper straps that can be no larger than 36” x 2” x 1/4” thick. Up to

8” may be welded to the hood, top of radiator support or trunk lid and to the bumpers. These may angle in

front of the radiator but not cross.

d. Straps may have a hole burned thru it and be placed over the core support all thread bolt.

9. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front

most part of the frame rails.

10. Bumpers may only be welded to end of the shock tubes, brackets and/or frame rails. Pending your mounting

choice.

Engines:

1. Motor – Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location of the car you are running, within reason

approximately 5 inches from the front edge of the original motor mount on the frame.

2. Lower Engine saddle type Cradles with a front plate up to the heads (see sample pic). are allowed but must only

attach to the engine cross member and not the frame. If using factory engine type size mounts with rubber

bushing, you may weld the pad completely. If you are hard mounting, you are allowed a maximum of 8” per side

to hold the motor in. with either style cradle you may also bolt using up to quantity of “4”- 5/8” bolts.

3. If trying to mount an engine with an engine cross member and the motor mounts do not line up, you may use 2

6”X6” X .” plates on the frame engine saddle to attach your engine mounts to. This may not be welded to the

outer frame rails.

a. If using Stock motor mounts or your motor mounts are broken after a heat, Motor may be fastened with

only one strap or chain per side to the top of the factory engine cradle, or you may use one length of 2” x

Page | 5

2” x 1/8”” angle bolted to the front of the head area and may be welded within 4” of the A-arm and be

welded to no more than 4” on frame/unibody.

4. There is NO modifications to the frame or engine cross member to fit engines unless it is to cut out for an oil pan,

but nothing can be welded back in.

5. You may cut off or bend over and weld the front “tongue” of the engine cross member.

6. Distributor Protectors are not allowed. you may cut out the area directly behind the Distributor above the floor

seam (if you don’t have a floor seam assume there is one) or hammer it back for clearance.

7. Transmission tunnel may be split with one cut using a cutting wheel to relieve pressure.

8. Mid Plates are not allowed

9. Lower Damper pulley protectors are allowed. Must be no more than .” thick plate and not more than 1” away

from the front of the pulley and may only cover the lower half of the pulley. It may not come in contact with the

frame, core support etc. the only time it may touch anything is if you are FUBAR. If it is determined that it was

used as a wedge you will be DQ’d.

10. Skid plate / pan protectors may be used but must only be the size of the pan and they may not be connected.

Together or be attached to the frame or body in any way. Skid plates may be attached to the bottom most points

of the transmission brace for mounting purposes only!

11. After market bell housing and tail shafts (not wraps) OR a 5-bar style transmission protector (see sample pic

Below) may be used, but not both together. Neither application may be hard mounted or be attached to the frame

body or crossmember. It may not come in contact with the frame before or after the event. A B.O.P adapter plate

no larger than the adapter plate (see pic below) may be used.

12. IF using a stock transmission with NO bell’s, tail shafts or protectors, you are allowed to bolt Transmission down

to the cross member using factory transmission bolt holes.

13. Transmission Cross Member -You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location for the car you

are building. If using a tube, you can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 1/4”, no longer than 8” to the side of the

frame to support the cross member. You must remove the stock mount if you run the angle iron. If you replace the

stock cross member it can be no larger than 2”x 2” O.D.x1/4” tubing. The transmission cross member must be

one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the

transmission may be tied in. A 3/8” inspection hole must be with 12” of center if using tubing. If you run the square

tube the cadi cross member brackets/frame extensions must be cut so they do not come in contact with the

crossmember before or after the derby.

Body Mounts:

1. Body mount bolts to the frame can be replaced with 1/2” bolts.

2. Body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock

spacers.

a. If tilting and you need a thicker spacer at the fire wall this will be allowed, it may not be welded to the

frame or body and may only be 2” O.D. 1/8” wall thickness.

3. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 2” O.D. x 1/8” thick washer on top, washers must be separate

and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame.

4. Radiator support mounts can be removed completely. (see Radiator rules for details)

5. Absolutely no body mounts may be relocated or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past

the original foremost body/core support bolt or your will not run.

6. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it either to the body or the frame mount, but only one side

can be welded. Core support spacers cannot exceed 6” in length and 3” in width.

7. Chrysler Cordoba k-framed body mounts must remain stock, you do one wrap of chain around the K-frame and

front unibody in front of the front k-member bolt.

8. You may use up to 1” all-thread, with 3 nuts two 3” washers and one 5” washer (that must be on top of the hood

and trunk lid) per all-thread. It may go from the hood and trunk lid to the frame, but must go through the front body

mounts, or down the side of the frame and welded to the frame only or a nut welded to the top of the frame. All

options must be within 1” of the core support. this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body

mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. One per frame rail in front and trunk. If

you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk all thread, this does not have to be up inside frame, a washer

can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3” O.D. x 1/4” thick. If you run your all thread thru

the body mount, you must still have 1” spacer between the body and the frame. Trunk deck and core support may

be nutted and washered with a 3” washer.

9. On wagons, Bolts welded to the frame must be located within 5” of the rear frame body mount, they may be bent

and continue thru the rear door only.

Body:

Page | 6

Body Shaping

1. Body line creasing is allowed on fenders and rear quarter panels, all fenders, quarter panels rear sheet metal

above bumper must remain in vertical position. No collapsing or wedging Dove tailing of rear quarter panels and

trunks or trunk lid.

2. No welding of created seams is allowed.

3. Exterior Suicide Lincoln fender may not be welded.

4. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. No rolling your fenders and welding them. Rear and front fenders may

be bolted back together with 6 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. If you wrap or fold your fenders

around the front of the core support do not exceed 3 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core

support of fender.

Rust Repair

5. The only Body rust repairs that will be allowed using sheet metal of the same thickness as the body are:

a. The floor pan to “FIX” rust holes only no skinning of the entire floor. This applies to the driver seat &

foot area, battery and gas tank mounting areas only. Nothing up the doglegs or excessive or it will be removed

completely.

b. Body rust repairs will also be allowed on the “pillars” only. A piece no bigger than 14” by 14” may be

used. At least one 1” inspection holes must be in the sheet metal for inspection. Do not cover more than

the rusted area (ie. 4-inch rust hole does not need the full 14” piece).

Doors:

6. You must weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap or .” round stock and must follow the

door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may smash the inner and outer skin together of

the door window openings and weld them solid. You may use the same filler as in welding the door seems but no

longer than the window opening per door.

7. Driver’s door and driver’s side of front windshield may have “netting” for driver’s safety. NO other windows may

have “netting.”

8. Drivers door may be “double skin”; however, it cannot exceed 2” O.D. past the footprint of the driver’s door.

9. You can add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2”

from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 6” past the

vertical exterior door seams.

10. Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. Tail gates are considered trunk lids. All other rules

above must be followed.

Radiators, radiator supports:

1. Only OEM style passenger car radiators may be used. Aluminum racing radiators of the same style may be used.

2. Radiator must be attached to the core support in original stock location and position. Radiators may be mounted

in such a way to hold the radiator in place, not strengthen the core support. For mounting radiators, you may use

up to 4 – 3/8” all thread. This may pass thru the bottom and top of the core support. If you have no lower or upper

mounting area, you may be attached two 2”x 6” 1/8” flat steel on the top and bottom and must be welded to the

core support they must be outside the fan. Or if welding radiator in place you may use four 1” welds, one per

corner. No added metal may be used to mount the radiator.

3. No radiator guards allowed other than 1/8” expanded metal or old condensers may be used. They may only be

wired in or a maximum of six 1” welds may be used to hold it in place.

4. You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed (electric fans are allowed).

5. Radiator loops may be used.

6. Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same

way that it came from the factory.

7. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, see Body mounts #8.

8. Radiator core support seam welding is NOT allowed. Only slight modifications due to bumper brackets for

mounting core support back into the original position is allowed, Officials discretion.

9. Radiator supports may not be welded to the frame, bumper brackets, bumpers or anything else.

10. No FOAM fill can be used.

CAGES & DOOR BARS: SEE Diagram last page

Page | 7

1. All cage material must be no larger than 6” O.D. (official’s discretion), unless specified for a specific rule smaller. It

must also be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage

material may be within 6” of the firewall and be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel. All bars must be

straight. Drivers Door bar may be wider for driver’s protection.

2. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame,

and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. Side door

bars may not go past the front dash or rear seat bar.

3. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and rear seat bar inside of the front doors only.

4. For driver safety, you may weld two down bars from the cage to the floor pan or frame vertically to protect

batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seam and cannot not exceed 3”x3”

and may only be welded to the sheet metal using a 4” plate max.

5. You may run a two 3” x 3” max size down bars from the rear seat cage bar to the floor; all down bars must be

vertical. Back of seat cage cross bar, including roll bar must be placed above the rear side of the foot well kick up

directly behind front seat. You may weld two down bars from the rear seat bar to the floor pan or frame vertically.

These down bars may only be welded to the floor sheet metal with a max 4” plate or to the top of the frame no

plate. No bolting unless for a Chrysler sub frame may use a .” bolt thru the subframe behind the seat, max 4”

plate may be used. Official has discretion.

6. You must have a Vertical roll loop/Halo behind the seat, above the rear seat bar; this may extend to the floor as

your rear seat down bar, not in addition to, following rule 4. Halo must be attached to the roof with 3 attachment

points, one of which must be in the center of the hood.

7. You may also weld a steering column to the cage.

8. Gas Tank Protector – You may run a gas tank protector. See diagrams below. It cannot attach to anything other

than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 36” O.D. wide and 30” O.D.

Deep but must be a full 4” away from rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed or altered to achieve your 4”.

The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal and using two bars running front to back of the car from the

seat bar with a connecting bar behind the gas tank, the connecting bar must be 4” from the rear seat back sheet

metal. You may have a 16” gusset from the seat bar to the gas tank side bars. Any other bars will be removed.

measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. We will allow a Gas Tank Halo protector not

to exceed the picture below.

Hood and Trunk:

1. Hood must be off for inspection and be with car.

2. Trunk Lid and Hood must be 100% in stock location as if mounted on the hinges and have a min 20” x 20” hole for

inspection and fire access in the hood and hinge spring must be removed.

3. Any cut outs in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than

a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not

exceed the 12 bolts.

4. You can fold hoods or trunk lids over. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean. Rear

fenders see BODY #1. No collapsing or wedging of rear quarter panels and trunks or trunk lid. We will allow a 6”

inch well or on the top of the quarter panel on the trunk for pre-creasing, the 6” rule also applies to dove

tailing/canoeing, you may cut out sheet metal also.

5. No welding of created seams is allowed.

6. Hood: You are allowed to bolt, not including the 1” all thread to the frame. (See Body mount rule #8). All other tie

down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. You have two ways to bolt the hood.

a. You may use 8 Bolts, not including the 2 core support bolts in the hood and trunk bolts may be no larger

than 8”x .” with two 5” washers per bolt. Washers per bolt, with the exception of the two core support

bolts thru the frame. Washers may be welded to the inner fenders and to the HOOD only.

b. You may use 8 points, not including the 2 core support bolts of Two 6-inch individual lengths of 2” x 2” x

3/16” angle iron may be welded to the body only back to back and bolted together with two a 3/8” bolt.

These cannot be welded across the seam.

7. Trunk must be welded, trunk lid seams only using . inch round stock or 2” x 3/16” flat stock. Must FLAT on the

outside of the seam not in the seam.

Windshield Bars and Firewall:

1. Firewall – If you shape the firewall or weld or bolt it to reinforce it, you will cut the firewall out anywhere it is

deemed to be reinforced. If you add any metal or bolts to the firewall you will be loaded without the opportunity to

fix it.

Page | 8

2. Window Bars – For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the sheet metal roof of the car to

the firewall dash or front dash bar, widow bars cannot exceed 2”. No more than 6″ of strap material allowed on the

sheet metal roof and no more than 6″ of strap material allowed on the firewall dash or front dash bar. Do not go

over 6″ on roof or firewall or you will cut. Must be min of 16” off of the pillars.

a. You may connect the bars with no more than quantity “2” two flat straps horizontally.

3. One rear windows bar placed off of the center of the roof. Bar may not be longer than 24” long by 2” x 2” O.D. Bar

may only be attached by welding directly to the sheet metal with a mounting plate no bigger than 4” x 4” by .”

angle or plate on the roof, cowl, speaker deck or trunk. If using rear window bar in a Station Wagon tailgate

windows are treated as a rear window, while the tailgate itself is considered a trunk, but must be mounted at the

top of the tailgate, and the tailgate must be in original closed position. If your window opening is larger than 24”’s

than you must mount the bar with the mounting plate being within 1” of the window opening.

11. No wiring or chaining of any window openings.

12. Window bars may not be attached to the halo bar or any cage components.

Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:

1. Original gas tanks must be removed.

2. Only metal Marine type tank, metal fuel tank or derby type metal fuel tank is required.

3. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be. Must be securely

mounted behind the driver’s seat to the sheet metal with bolts, metal straps, or chain. No seat belts or pull tie

straps may be used. Or you may suspend it on your cage, follow cage rules. No other source of gas/ether inside

the car at all.

4. 7-gallon (within reason) max tank maximum may be used must fit within gas tank protector specs.

5. Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame. Fuel line must be inside a protective line

with in the engine compartment.

6. Tranny and fuel coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend

through the frame to create a body mount.

7. If you are not using a gas tank/trans cooler protector, the fuel cell and tranny cooler must be 4” away from the rear

sheet metal. So, either way protector or not nothing can be within 4” of any sheet metal.

***IF USING AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP, YOU MUST BRING IT TO INSPECTORS ATTENTION AT TECH***

1. Electric fuel pumps are allowed. The on/off switch must be easily accessible and clearly marked with bright paint.

An “E” will be attached rear pillar during Tech to Identify the Electric Fuel Pump.

2. NO ALCOHOL TYPE FUEL MAY BE USED!

BATTERIES:

1. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered, unless you

are using a gel cell battery. Up to two 12-volt Batteries may be used.

2. Battery box must be made out of metal! It must be bolted to the floor. Bolts may not go thru or around the frame.

Seat belts or pull type tie downs may not be used.

3. Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for driver’s

safety with sheet metal only. You may not patch clean and solid floors.

4. All body mounts must be visible.

FEATURE/GRUDGE MATCH (CONSI)REPAIR RULE:

1. You must provide your own fixit plates.

2. 4 frame rail plates per frame rail may be used: 4”X6”X3/16” of which only 3 may be used in front of the

transmission cross member per frame rail.

3. Plates may be bent and cut but must be used on the frame only. If you cut, you cannot use the excess pieces

anywhere else.

4. Plates and weld must be separated by 1” in between welds and or plates, stitch welding is not allowed between

plates.

5. Cracked frames may be welded with a single pass

6. You may patch any hole in the doors or floor of the car for SAFETY only. You must use sheet metal only. And

Page | 9

your patch may be only 2” larger than the hole you are patching.

7. No #9 wire may be used for repair.

8. You may reinforce damaged steering components on pre-run cars only using one piece of 1”by 1” by 1/8” angle,

but you must use factory type and strength parts.

9. No wedges may be used between firewall and frame.

OVERALL SAFETY IS OUR GOAL

ALL BUILD AND REPAIR RULES WILL BE AT THE

DISCRETION OF THE OFFICIALS!

CARS MAY BE RE-INSPECTED AT ANY TIME BEFORE, DURING OR AFTER

ALL INITIAL INSPECTIONS AND HEAT’S

sample transmission adapter plate sample bar transmission protector

Sample steel tail shaft and bell (bell can be aluminum) sample steering box adapter

Page | 10

Sample lower engine cradle and pulley protector Gas tank protector maximum